Fourth Stop: Budapest

Wow. It has been a crazy four days in Budapest. I apologize to anyone who actually reads my blog posts (Hi Mom!), but this is going to be longer than usual. I guess the length would correspond to the time I've spent here, considering I have stayed in Budapest longer than anyone else thus far. But I digress. Time to talk about Hungary.

Traveling through Europe is always about seeing the sights, except when it isn't. The one thing that I've learned in Budapest is that the people truly make time spent in another city fun and interesting. Sharing stories over a few beers and good food can be much more satisfying than strolling around a museum and art gallery. Don't get me wrong, I thoroughly enjoy both of those activities, but there needs to be balance while traveling, especially on longer trips.

From the moment I arrived at the hostel in Budapest, I knew I was in for a treat. The hostel is located atop a old-fashioned residential building just off the Danube River. The first elevator ride up was a frightening experience; it rattles and creaks, seeming to struggle without even bearing my weight. Luckily, I survived this ride and many rides to come. The hostel owner named Tom led me into the hostel and gave me the usual schpeel that was not at all the usual schpeel. I was treated more like a buddy who has been away for a while rather than a customer.

All of the employees are genuinely kind people who to me seemed to treat the whole hostel business as less of a business and more of a way to make friends. There were about ten people staying here when I checked in and many of them had been here for months. Most were from the UK or Austrailia and had all become close after staying at the Loft Hostel for so long. They tell me that when people come to the hostel they always end up putting off traveling elsewhere for at least a few days. I now understand why.

Almost directly after I arrived, Tom's younger brother, Sam, asked me if I wanted to go a Hungarian-style teahouse. Intrigued, I accepted his invitation. The teahouse is called Sirius and is situated in an unassuming block on an unassuming street. If I hadn't be led in, I would never have seen the joint. The initial room is simple enough. It has a feel of an artsy cafe like something like you'd see in an artsy neighboor in New York in the 1960's. The real surprise lay a little deeper in the building. Making my way through a curtain door, I walked into a room that is covered in tapestries and carpets on every surface. There are bean bags and cushions all around, most with groups of people or couples lounging around them, smoking shisha, drinking tea, getting to second base in public, or a combination of all three. Removing my shoes, I followed Sam toward a cupboard at the corner of the room. He opened the cupboard, ducked down, and entered à la Alice in Wonderland. I did the same soon after to find myself in a room full of mirrors in a broken, mosaic sort of style. The next room was where we ended up staying; it was underneath a huge wooden board that extended the length of the room on which other people sat in their comfy areas. I don't think if my explanation is adequate to convey the place fully, but needless to say, I loved it.

I stuck with the same crowd and celebrated the 20th birthday of Beth, who was one of the girls that had been living there for a while. We went to a pub and drank fifty cent drafts, then made our way to the wackiest bar I have ever set foot. I have encounted a few places like this in Budapest, so although the explanation may not seem typical, this style of bar is surprisingly common. It is obvious that building which houses this certain drinking establishment was once an large apartment building. There is a courtyard in the center which serves as the main room. It has a large bar in the corner and tables and chairs all over - normal enough. The real surprise is when I started to explore a bit. Walking through small corridors and tight staircases, I make my way to other parts of the huge building. Every room acts as different piece of contemporary art. There is on room that is black and full of paper-mâché butterflies. Another a series of concentric metal circles from the light in the center, creating the illusion that the sun shines down into the room. Yet another is an upside-down room in which a furniture set, complete with knick-knacks and personal belongings, is nailed to the ceiling. Wild.

Rising a little late the next morning, I took a pleasure that I have begun to enjoy on my first day in a city, a preliminary walk around. Budapest is a little less walkable than previous cities, but I still was able to cover most of Pest (the part of the city on the East of the Danube). The highlights for the day were the extraordinary Parliament building and the Scéchenyi Baths. Budapest is built above thermal springs which feed many of the cities centuries old bathhouses. The water soothed my tired legs and eased my slightly hungover mind. Old men were playing chess, children were playing, Japanese tourists were taking pictures. It was a great time.

That night I watched one of the hostel employees blues band, although it sounded a lot like toned-down jazz to me. I took it easy that night, but I did end up going to what can only be described as a silent disco. Look it up, I swear it is real. A thousand dancing partygoers in almost compete silence is a eerie sight. Everyone wears wireless headsets that have the ability to pick up different channels that DJs are spinning. You need to sync up with the same channel your dancing partner is for this whole thing to really work. It was quite an experience. If I had more time, I would love to put my minor to use and talk about science and technology in the social sphere, but I'll leave that for another time.

The next day I went to Buda and saw the Buda Castle and a charming residental area. I ate the obligatory goulash, which was actually quite delicious. That afternoon I saw some Hungarian classical music with special accompaniment by a cimbalom player (cool instrument). The conductor was a riot; he turned a traditionally stuffy and uptight orchestral show into an interactive comedy routine. At a time, members of the orchestra would casually walk off stage, eventually leaving only the 1st chair violinist with a confused look on his face. At another point, two violinist moved their chairs and waltzed around during a song. This was the only classic show I've see that the audience was encouraged to clap along to the finale - great stuff.

Not considering going out, I picked up a bottle of dry red wine on the way home which I paid close to nothing for. When I arrived back at the hostel, there were some new faces - a few Irish (Mark and Rand) and some Aussies (Ash and Ben). I chatted it up with them for a while and found that we got along quite well. After some more win, Tom finally convinced me to go to the pub, proving once and for all the I am utterly incapable of withstanding peer pressure even when it is applied softly. We went to a rooftop bar with cheap drinks (see a theme here?). From this point on things get a little hazy upon recollection. I hung out with the hostel folk for a few hours, but I know I ended up convincing people to join me a floor below in the dance area where the DJ was playing Girl Talk-esque mash-ups. Of course everybody loved it and I danced like a fool for hours, which is ultimate proof I was drunk. To those who have seem me dance, they know.

We ended up leaving at about 4 AM while the sky bore traces that the sunset for going to occur all too soon. The next morning I awoke at noon and I was the first one up - tourist fail. After some tea to wake me up, we all went for a light lunch. I left for the sports bar to watch my man Federer make history. And make history he did. In all of my excitement, I almost forgot I had tickets for the ballet that night (cost me all of $4.50 USD). Romeo and Juliet was cool, but the real amazing part was the Opera House. The gold to non-gold ration in that building was the highest I've seen in any building. Supposedly, the chandelier is 2000 pounds of solid gold. I guess everyone else sat on their asses all day watching all three Back to the Future movies. My day was better.

Tomorrow I leave for Prague which I hope will be just as fulfilling as Budapest. If the people I meet there are half as friendly and sociable as the people I have met at the Loft Hostel, I will be a happy man. Budapest will always have a place in my heart, though. Twenty years ago, it would be unheard of to travel to this Communist satelite state, but now the city is flourishing. To anyone who considers traveling to Europe, Budapest is a must-see.